January: What’s been on the menu recently
What we’ve been eating: Baked Alaska with Cherry ice cream, chocolate sauce and brandy
A true classic dessert to start the new year. The Cherry Baked Alaska is a piece of culinary theatre. First created in 1867 by chef Charles Ranhofer at Delmonico’s in New York, Baked Alaska was designed to celebrate the purchase of Alaska - showcasing the magic of warm and cold existing in perfect harmony.
A soft sponge base and frozen centre are enveloped in meringue, then baked or torched until beautifully caramelised on the outside while remaining icy within.
Our version celebrates the bold character of Morello cherries. Dark, sour, and richly coloured, they bring a sharp, wine-like acidity that cuts cleanly through the sweetness of the ice cream and meringue.
The meringue itself is Italian meringue, smooth and glossy, made by gently pouring hot sugar syrup into whipped egg whites. This creates a stable, silky texture with a marshmallow-like softness that takes on a golden, toasted finish when torched - forming a delicate shell around the frozen core.
A touch of brandy adds warmth and nostalgia, its notes of vanilla, spice, and caramel enhancing the richness of the cherries.
This is a true show-stopper to end the meal (even if we do say so ourselves).
What we’ve been drinking: 2009 Aglianico, Mastroberardino ‘Naturalis Historia’. Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy
Founded in the 1750s by Pietro di Mastro (from “Maestro”) Berardino, Mastroberardino is Campania’s most renowned winery, located in the town of Atripalda on Italy’s west coast. Still family-owned and run, the estate is celebrated not only for the quality of its wines, but for its pivotal role in preserving Campania’s vinous heritage. Even when indigenous varieties were unfashionable, the winery continued to work with grapes such as Aglianico, Fiano, Piedirosso, Greco, Falanghina, and Coda di Volpe, safeguarding the region’s identity.
Today, Mastroberardino works carefully to match each variety to the right soil, using suitable vine training and trellising, and tailoring winemaking methods to maximise each grape’s varietal character rather than masking it. Naturalis Historia comes from a 50-year-old vineyard on the Mirabella Eclano estate, producing a wine of impressive structure and longevity.
The 2009 vintage was widely celebrated across Italy, producing ripe, balanced wines with excellent freshness.
Following a long maceration of around 25 days, the wine was aged for 24 months in French oak barriques before spending a further 30 months in bottle, allowing its layers to soften and integrate while retaining impressive vitality.
It is warm and enveloping, with great structure and a velvety softness, unfolding flavours of plum, bitter cherry, raspberry and strawberry jam, all carried by a long, savoury finish.