December: What’s been on the menu recently

What we’ve been eating: Brixham Crab, bisque jelly, eel, apple and herbs

At the heart of this month’s dish is both white and brown crab, fresh from the pristine waters off the coast of Brixham. Sweet and delicately flavoured, we use both the white and brown meat - the white for its gentle sweetness and firm texture, and the brown for its rich, savoury depth that brings an umami-laced warmth to the plate.

The crisp, tart, and bright Granny Smith apple adds a clean, green acidity that cuts beautifully through the sweetness of the shellfish. Whilst smoked eel adds a silky, buttery element, pairing wonderfully with the crab while adding a hint of smokiness. A bisque gel made from reduced shellfish stock and aromatics adds a lovely element that ties the whole dish together.

For lift and fragrance, we finish with chervil and dill from our own garden, fresh, delicate herbs that bring gentle aniseed and citrus notes. Petals of cornflower and marigold add a final touch of colour, spice, and brightness to complete the dish.

What we’ve been drinking: Hundred Hills Blanc de Noirs 2019

Working closely with Pierre-Marie Guillaume and his son François from Charcenne in the Burgundy Franche-Comté region of France, the team carefully segmented their vineyard into ten parcels of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, each chosen for its aspect and soil.

The Pinot Noir for this inaugural Blanc de Noirs comes from a single parcel picked late in October 2019, after more than 100 days on the vine. Following full malolactic fermentation and 30 months on lees, the wine was bottled without fining or filtration, remaining true to Hundred Hills’ minimalist approach. 

Hundred Hills combines meticulous hands-on vineyard care with cutting-edge innovation, even using satellite technology to monitor soil and vine health. Certified by WineGB for both sustainable vineyard and winery practices, their approach is an admirable mix of tradition, precision, and environmental responsibility.

This critically acclaimed wine captures the rich layers of flavour, aroma and texture present in the late harvested Pinot Noir grapes, balanced by a core of fresh acidity.

A vibrant acidity supports layers of ripe red fruit - macerated strawberry, raspberry, and red apple, that unfold into blood orange, nectarine, and peach cream. The palate is generous yet refined, balancing richness with a fresh, lingering finish that perfectly captures the character of the 2019 vintage.